Crofton On Wells

535 N. Wells St. (bet. Grand Ave. & Ohio St.), Chicago, IL 60610
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our comments

Clean & hushed, decorated with stylish restraint by Crofton herself in white & grey, the space is simple & modern. The candlelit room's walls are bare, save for a wavy symmetrical mirror that hints at Crofton's whimsy. There's no excess, no flash-nothing to distract from Crofton's exceptional, seasonal American cuisine. Crofton's touch is restrained but confident, from the playful zing of smoked scallop ceviche with grilled baby octopus with mango, to the earthy, dark flavor of sautéed wild mushrooms in a basket of fried leek. Barbecued pork tenderloin is a dinner standout, two fist-sized chunks of perfectly cooked meat glazed with sauce & drizzled with zesty poblano cream with dense corn pudding on the side. For dessert, extra-bittersweet chocolate cake isn't kidding-so intense, it'll give you a head rush. For something milder, dip into the delicious, Trio of Creme Brulees which change according to the chef's whim.

- April 2005

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